Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 2

After the painting on rocks at Passo Dei Val Strut head across the top of the glacier, where a short scree slope leads to the foot of the first of two very old and loose VF wires. This wire leads to a lower shoulder (the rock is loose but the scrambling is not hard).

Note, a steep scree path parallel to this first wire (about 30 metres away) also leads up to the lower shoulder.

From the lower shoulder some poles lead left to the end of the spur where the second old wire leads up to the main East ridge proper.

Also from this lower shoulder some old red dots lead up right directly to steepish rocks just below the main East ridge, where 30m of exposed scrambling with no wires is found, this is an old dismantled VF route.

The whole of this ascent needs careful navigation and is liable to icing and stonefall; it is not a place to be in bad weather.

October 2019

P54 -SMar 1. VF Bolver Lugli
Several sections of the more exposed scrambling to the actual start now have VF wires on them.

P57 - SMar 2. VF Gabitta d’Ignotti
Note “The route has some diff scrambling and is not for the feint hearted”

Also p59: With glacier shrinkage there are some quite loose rocks below the last rock band.

September 2019

'Sentiero Attrezzato Rio Sallagoni reopened page 257

This ferrata was closed for a while, following a rock fall during the summer of 2018. The route is, however, an important tourist facility and consequently, funds were found with unusual speed, and repair work carried out. Consequently, the ferrata is once more available, albeit with some fairly significant changes to its line, and with an additional cable bridge to follow, although the difficulty is unchanged. The grading of the route has always been a matter of debate, indeed disagreement, with some asserting that our grade 4 is not justified. Our feeling is that your attitude to the grade might well depend on how tall you are! As we said in the guidebook, 'Fairly tall ferratists might feel that this route is overgraded: shorter ones will feel the grade entirely justified!

'S.MAR 8 Sentiero Attrezzato Dino Buzzati

Sadly, one of the best bits of this route has been removed! The squeeze through the back of the narrow crack, which we describe on page 77, is no more. Instead of leading you into the back of the crack, the cable now goes out onto the right hand wall, and climbs steeply to the point above the crack.'

'VICEN 1 VF Carlo Campalani and VICEN 2 Sentiero Alpinistico Pojesi.

Our route descriptions acknowledge the long standing practice of combining these two routes into a single excursion, with Sentiero Pojesi being the means of descent from the ridge. However, the friable nature of the rock on Sentiero Pojesi, has led the local branch of CAI, who oversee the maintenance of the route, to post warning notices saying it is 'forbidden' to descend this way. Needless to say, it is well nigh impossible to enforce this, and it is likely that you will still see the occasional climber on their way down, as you head in the opposite direction! However, we urge you most strongly to respect CAI's request and, as always, take great care not to dislodge loose or unstable rock and endanger climbers below you.'

July 2018 - Brenta Dolomites Updates

P164 Maps
Tabacco now have a “Dolomiti di Brenta” map number 053

P167 Lift Systems.
Madonna di Campiglio, Carlo Campo Magno. Groste 1 and 2; end of June to mid September.
Madonna di Campiglio. Pradalago; end of June to mid September (route BREN 13 only).
Madonna di Campiglio. 5 Laghi; end of June to mid September. (route BREN 13 only).
Pinzolo. Doss Del Sabion; end of June to early September (routes BREN 7,8 and 9).
Molveno. Pradel; end of June to mid September. (0830 to 1300 and 1400 to 1800).

P212 BREN 13
the Pradalago lbar and restaurant is now open in summer so at the end of line 2 and line 3 first main paragraph; delete in winter; closed in summer.

P213 delete whole of second paragraph and replace with;
Return from Lago Serodoli to the sign for path 226 and follow this undulating traverse above Valle Nambino directly back to the top station of the Pradalago gondola.

While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Revisions to this guide are listed below, so please check them as part of the planning of your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to info@cicerone.co.uk .

Note on route closures

Anyone planning a trip to the Dolomites area should be aware that via ferrata routes are closed from time to time, either to repair damaged protection, or to assess the stability of areas of rock. It is always difficult to say with any certainty how long routes will remain closed, since it is necessary to arrange for funding for proper assessments of rock stability, and the works judged to be necessary to return the routes to a safe condition.

While these closures may be inconvenient for ferratists trying to plan trips, we should take comfort from the fact that the local sections of CAI, and the local authorities, are impressively vigilant in ensuring our safety.

February 2017

SMAR 12, page 86
The route has all new looking heavy duty cable through the entire route; this has replaced the thin cables mentioned in the book.
The “right hand course into the dwarf pine-covered slope” still exists but the thin cable on this right course is just a piece of rope.
Also “the less than new log” on the pegs is now an old board still providing footholds.

ROVER 4 page 293
It is possible that new cabling of the reopened route can be seen as a downgrade from 5 to 4 as in almost all steep sections there are foot and hand placements on metal rungs (ladders). However the route is still a serious undertaking and should not be taken lightly.

The Rientro Attrezzata route no longer exists, cables have been cut and the path is entirely overgrown. The descent is therefore Sentiero 675 to the left, walking down to the start of the route.

November 2013

p48 BOLZ 3: Monte Roen
The signage is now much more subtle than the photo on p48. This photo will be updated when this book is reprinted.

Also p48 paragraph 2; note that a lot of the cable is now loose.

p178 BRENTA Lift Systems
Brenta routes 6, 7 and 8: Doss del Sabion uplift runs until mid September, not early September

p216 Trento North Maps
The highlighted banner heading should read “Trent 1,2,3 Kompass Wanderkarte 1:50000 Sheet 95” (not Sheet 96)

p233 TRENT 6: SA Degasperi and p237 TRENT 7: VF Segata
Both these routes continue to be closed; we have no information to indicate when they will be reopened.

p250 Sidebar top left
Camping Daino – although this is a good campsite there can be some noise disturbance from the nearby quarry and passing road traffic.

p252 RIVA 2
The descent (path 426) is now named Sentiero del Rampin, and the danger sign has been removed. It remains unpleasant, until reaching the good path lower down.

p266 RIVA 7
On the way up, the newish small building (after Capanna S. Barbara) is now a semi-ruined shell.

February 2013

For further reference to information on via ferrata set recalls, please see the BMC website.

August 2012

TRENT 7: VF Segata, M. Bondone
This is currently closed for maintenance, but there is no information to indicate how long this will take.

p266 (final paragraph) RIVA 7: Ferrata del Centenario SAT
Please note that 100 metres after Capanna S. Barbara you take the right turn to the ferrata, reached in a few minutes from here. Note, this is before Chiesetta S. Barbara which you reach via the left fork and which is on the return loop of path 404.

ROVER 3: M. Cornetto
This is closed following rockfall. Since there is apparently further unstable rock, it is difficult to say how long the closure will be in place. The route has a locally used name 'Vaio Stretto'.

ROVER 4: M. Albano
Closed due to rockfalls on site. Cables were cut in the beginning and in the end of the route. Community decided to close the route..

p109 AGORD 6: VF Canalone
The second sidebar can now be ignored, as the closure notice has been lifted.

p178 BREN 1
“Descent of Vedretta di Tucket to Rif. Tuckett” – New sidebar at the top left of the page: “New cabling from Vedretta di Tucket on Sentiero Dallagiacoma (315) down to Rif. Tuckett”

p187 BREN 5
New sidebar at the bottom of the page: “Note, at the end of the ferrata turn left up the glacier to the col which leads down to Rif. Pedrotti.”