CONTENTS
Map key
Overview map
Route summary table
Introduction
The subarctic environment
Plants and animals
Regional history
When to go
Planning your walk
Transport
Boat crossings
Accommodation
Hut life and facilities
The truth about sauna
Trail marking and access
What to take
Mapping and GPS
Communications and electronics
Resupply
Safety and wellbeing
Using this guide
Section 1 – Abisko to Saltoluokta
Stage 1 Abisko to Abiskojaure
Stage 2 Abiskojaure to Alesjaure
Stage 3 Alesjaure to Tjäktja
Stage 4 Tjäktja to Sälka
Stage 5 Sälka to Singi
Stage 6 Singi to Kaitumjaure
Stage 7 Kaitumjaure to Teusajaure
Stage 8 Teusajaure to Saltoluokta via Vakkotavare
Additional itineraries
Additional itinerary 1 Singi to Nikkaluokta (alternative finish to Section 1)
Additional itinerary 2 Kebnekaise summit
Section 2 – Saltoluokta to Kvikkjokk
Stage 9 Saltoluokta to Sitojaure
Stage 10 Sitojaure to Aktse
Stage 11 Aktse to Pårte
Stage 12 Pårte to Kvikkjokk
Section 3 – Kvikkjokk to Jäkkvik
Stage 13 Kvikkjokk to Tsielekjåkkå
Stage 14 Tsielekjåkkå to Gistojávrátj
Stage 15 Gistojávrátj to Gásakláhko
Stage 16 Gásakláhko to Vuonatjviken
Stage 17 Vuonatjviken to Jäkkvik
Section 4 – Jäkkvik to Ammarnäs
Stage 18 Jäkkvik to Luvtávrre
Stage 19 Luvtávrre to Bäverholmen
Stage 20 Bäverholmen to Tjiegnatisjávrrie
Stage 21 Tjiegnatisjávrrie to Rävfalls
Stage 22 Rävfalls to Ammarnäs
Section 5 – Ammarnäs to Hemavan
Stage 23 Ammarnäs to Aigert
Stage 24 Aigert to Serve
Stage 25 Serve to Tärnasjö
Stage 26 Tärnasjö to Syter
Stage 27 Syter to Viterskals
Stage 28 Viterskals to Hemavan
Appendix A Summary of facilities
Appendix B Useful contacts
Appendix C Summary of boat crossings
Appendix D Language
This book is up to Cicerone’s usual high standard and includes maps with the route highlighted.
As you may read elsewhere in this edition of Backpack, I spent two weeks earlier this year wild camping and hiking in the forests of south central Sweden and so the editors reckoned that this qualified me to review the new first edition Cicerone book about the Kungsleden (King’s Trail) by Mike Laing. What the editors didn’t know was that last year, when passing through Abisko in the far north of Sweden in a campervan, I also ceremoniously “dipped my toe” in the Kungsleden by walking the first quarter mile or so (and back) which was all I had time for. I believe this is the only English language guide to this trail.
The trail can be walked in either direction. It stretches for 460km across national parks from Abisko in the north to Hemavan in the south.
This book follows the usual Cicerone format of (in this case, 35) introductory pages which cover everything you need to know about the environment, flora and fauna, when to go (late June to early September is recommended), planning your walk, transport, boat crossings, accommodation, sauna etiquette, resupply and so much more.
Transport is an important factor as, from the UK, you will need to allow a likely two days to get to wherever you intend to begin your walk and a further two days to get back home. For example, if you are intending to start from Abisko, you would normally fly to Stockholm and then board another flight to Kiruna and then either bus or train to Abisko. If you start at Hemavan, you would take the train from Stockholm north to Umeå and then travel for five and a half hours by bus. Getting to and from anywhere in between can be even more interesting.
There are seven mandatory boat crossings to make on the Kungsleden along with four optional crossings. Four of the seven mandatory crossings involve making use of rowing boats for which no charge is made. However, this can be quite challenging and there may be a queue in peak season. Each crossing is equipped with three boats, the minimum required to guarantee both shores have a boat available at any one time. When you have rowed across, you must ensure that there is at least one boat remaining on each side. Thus, if you take the one and only boat from one side, you must return with a boat in tow and then row back leaving the towed boat behind. The longest crossing is 3km so you could end up rowing 9km altogether. Not for the fainthearted. Motor boat ferries are available for the longer crossings at a cost and making the necessary arrangements.
There are huts which provide shelter and overnight accommodation at various stages, some of which are manned and where some basic supplies can be bought. Camping is usually possible around the huts (at a charge) although camping is possible anywhere along the length of the trail. Water for drinking is rarely a problem.
The Kungsleden is divided into five main sections. The most popular section is from Abisko southwards to Vakkotavare (108.8km) from where a bus will take you to Gällivare and thence homewards either by bus or plane to Stockholm. This stretch is mainly open fell and mountainous. The other sections are no less challenging in their own way. The guide gives detailed route information for each section and stages within each section and indicates particularly good spots for camping.
This book is up to Cicerone’s usual high standard and includes maps with the route highlighted. You would be well advised to buy maps as well as those in the guide book and details are provided for both paper and digital maps and GPX tracks. There are also excellent colour photographs throughout.
Geoff Gafford, Backpack magazine
5* - By far the best guide to this epic walk
Outstandingly good guide book. I hiked the Kungsleden south to north in late August 2019 and Mike Laing’s book was the perfect companion. Definitive, positive, reassuring, information-packed, well researched and accurate. Greatly enhanced my enjoyment of the walk and I’d wholeheartedly recommend it.
NB just remember when rowing across lakes to take a spare oar. Many of the boats don’t have proper rowlocks and the oars are liable to pop out and can easily be lost overboard.
Adam D, by email