The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB): everything you need to know

Essential facts:

What? A world-famous long-distance hiking route around Mont Blanc, passing through France, Italy, and Switzerland.
Where? The Alps, circling the Mont Blanc massif.
Start point? Traditionally Les Houches (France), but other starting points like Courmayeur (Italy) and Champex-Lac (Switzerland) are common.
End point? The route forms a loop, bringing you back to your starting point.
Distance? Approximately 170 km (105 miles).
Cumulative ascent? Around 10,000 metres (32,800 feet).
Completion time? Typically 7 to 11 days, depending on pace and itinerary.
Why this route? The TMB is one of the most spectacular treks in the world, offering breathtaking alpine scenery, varied landscapes, charming mountain refuges, and a unique chance to experience three distinct cultures. It has all the excitement of a high mountain trek, with few of the worries.

What accommodation is available?

Along the TMB, various types of accommodation are available, including mountain refuges, hotels, and campsites. Most hikers stay in mountain refuges, which provide basic but comfortable accommodations and often include half-board (dinner and breakfast). These refuges fill up quickly during peak season, so booking in advance is advisable. Hotels and guesthouses are also in the larger towns and villages along the route for those looking for more comfort. Camping is possible in some areas, but wild camping is prohibited in most places.

Is the route waymarked?

Yes, the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is well waymarked. The route is clearly marked with red-and-white signs (the European long-distance hiking trail markings), which makes navigation relatively straightforward for experienced hikers. The trail is generally easy to follow, but there are some more remote sections where carrying a map or GPS device is advisable, particularly if you’re hiking independently. It's important to stay vigilant, as some paths may be obscured by snow early in the season or due to weather conditions.

Are luggage transfers available?

Yes, luggage transfers are available along the TMB. Many hikers opt for baggage transfer services to send their luggage from one refuge to the next, allowing them to walk with just a day pack. These services typically operate between accommodation points and can be booked in advance. This option is especially convenient if you want to keep your pack light during the hike. It's important to book these services ahead of time, particularly in the peak summer months when demand is high. However, some hikers prefer to carry all their gear themselves, particularly those who enjoy the added challenge or are on a tighter budget.

How to get there?

The Tour du Mont Blanc forms a loop, so the start and end points are the same. The most common starting point is Les Houches (France), which is easily accessible by public transport. Other common starting points include Courmayeur (Italy) and Champex-Lac (Switzerland).

Should the TMB be hiked clockwise or anti-clockwise?

The traditional way to hike the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is anticlockwise, and the vast majority of trekkers follow this direction. However, some hikers choose to go clockwise for a different experience. Here’s a breakdown of both options:

Anticlockwise (traditional direction) – recommended

✅ Gradual ascents – The route is designed with more gradual climbs and steeper descents, making it easier on the legs.
✅ Better flow with refuges – The accommodation system and waymarks cater to this direction.
✅ More social experience – Most hikers go anticlockwise, making meeting and walking with others easier.
✅ Easier logistics – Guidebooks, maps, and baggage transfer services are primarily geared towards this direction.
🚫 Can be crowded – Since most people follow this direction, popular refuges and trail sections can get busy, especially in peak season.

Clockwise – a less common challenge

✅ Quieter trails – You’ll encounter fewer hikers, making the experience feel more remote and peaceful.
✅ Unique perspectives – You’ll get different views of the mountains than most people experience.
✅ More solitude at refuges – You might avoid the biggest crowds at lunch spots and accommodation.
🚫 Steeper ascents – Many of the long, gradual climbs become sharp uphill slogs in this direction.
🚫 More difficult navigation – Since the waymarks and most guidebooks are written for the anticlockwise direction, you may need to be extra cautious with route-finding.
🚫 Fewer like-minded hikers – If you enjoy the social aspect of the trek, you may feel more isolated.

So, if it’s your first time hiking the TMB, go anticlockwise – it’s easier, better marked, and more sociable. However, consider going clockwise if you want a quieter, more challenging experience.

Top 10 tips for a first-time Alpine trekker

1. Accommodation –Book early! By January for summer treks, March for shoulder season. Use montourdumontblanc.com and booking sites. If camping, reserve pitches ahead and plan for areas where it’s not allowed.
   
2. Get into Good Shape –Train for at least two to three months, gradually increasing distance and elevation gain. Expect 15–20km days with 1000m of ascent and descent. A multi-day practice hike with your full kit will help.

3. Choose the Right Gear – Invest in sturdy, waterproof boots with good grip. Buy quality gear at discounts or second-hand. Ensure everything fits well before your trek.

4. Pack Smart –Keep your rucksack light—under 8kg if possible. Use a small toiletry kit, minimise electronics, and choose lightweight, packable clothing. Plan to wash items as you go.

5. Stay Organised – Read up on the route the night before, noting key points like water sources and steep sections. Pack waterproofs near the top of your bag and use waterproof stuff sacks to organise gear.

6. Start Early, Finish Early – Set off soon after breakfast to avoid midday heat and afternoon storms. Arriving early allows time to rest, plan the next day, and take care of chores.

7. Pace Yourself – Go steady, especially for the first few days, to acclimatise and avoid injury. Stop regularly, snack often, and carry at least 1 litre of water to stay hydrated.

8. Refuge Etiquette – Check in with the guardian on arrival, set up your bedding, and do any washing early while the sun is out. Sit in your assigned seat for meals, pay in the evening, and be quiet after 10pm.

9. Be Weather Aware – Alpine weather changes fast—carry waterproofs and sun protection. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer, and snow is possible year-round, especially on high passes.

10. Using Lifts and Buses – There’s no shame in taking a lift or bus to avoid bad weather, long descents, or to stay on schedule. Your trek is your own—enjoy it in a way that suits you!