The Cuillin Ridge Light – what you need to know

This summer, I guided Andy, a 70-year-old from Cornwall, and his wife Gerry, on the Cuillin Munros. Their Munro journey spanned 30 years, completing all 282 peaks. While Gerry considered it a job done, Andy's ambition extended to conquering the Cuillin Ridge. By necessity, it had to be late autumn, so given the shorter daylight hours, potential bad weather, and the team's age, the CRL was the obvious line to take.

Our traverse wasn’t typical. We had very limited hours of daylight and forecast temperatures down to minus 7 when wind chill was factored in. We planned for 3 days and were carrying a lot more than a typical summer traverse. However, it does go to show how the CRL allows a lot of people a reasonable shot at the ridge, especially in more favourable conditions.

We went in by boat from Elgol, ascended Gars-bheinn and continued along the ridge until just before the Thearlaich-Dubh (TD) Gap. As a bonus, we visited the outlying Munro of Sgurr Dubh Mor before descending to the spring below the TD Gap for water. It was a long night spent in bivi bags but a good time to rehydrate, refuel and sleep. The next day we continued along the ridge almost to Bidein. Progress was slow as we experienced sleet, hail and rain and visibility was severely reduced. Day three saw success as we arrived on Sgurr nan Gillean before descending to Sligachan for a celebratory drink or two.

It was a fantastic, world-class route. Andy, his climbing partner Mike and I ticked all the Munros including the outlying Sgurr Dubh Mor, enjoyed miles of scrambling and walking, several abseils and the iconic In Pinn, as well as two bivouacs high on the ridge.

THE MAJOR BYPASSES

1. THE THEARLAICH-DUBH GAP
This is an awkward Severe grade climb with a fearsome reputation. It is probably the hardest climb on the ridge, and potentially time consuming too.

BYPASS: SW FLANK, SGURR ALASDAIR (GRADE 3 SCRAMBLE)It is bypassed via screes below the base of the Thearlaich-Dubh Gap. Leave Bealach Coir an Lochain and descend on the Coir a Ghrunnda side to a scree path that runs along below the entrance to the TD Gap and leads to the bealach between Sgurr Sgumain and Sgurr Alasdair. An initial chimney pitch leads to easier scrambling and the summit.

Thus, a Severe grade climb is replaced by a much more amenable grade 3 scramble. A bonus of this bypass is that it takes you down close to the spring below the Thearlaich-Dubh Gap. Knowing you will be able to refill water bottles here means you can start out with just enough water for the first part of the ridge.

2. KING'S CHIMNEY (VERY DIFFICULT)
It looks worse than it is but is still an awkward and potentially challenging climb.

BYPASS: COLLIE'S LEDGE (MODERATE) After the initial few moves of Moderate climb, Collie’s is basically a grade 2 scramble and provides an amazing traverse high above Coire Lagan. It leads to the N ridge, Sgurr Mhic Choinnich.

3. AN STAC DIRECT (GRADE 3 SCRAMBLE)
This is a serious route and certainly at the top end of its grade, with massive exposure.

BYPASS: AN STAC BYPASS (GRADE 2 SCRAMBLE) Mainly a walk and easy scrambling, it is a lot quicker and offers a chance to overtake groups before the potential traffic jam of the In Pinn.

4. THE BHASTIER TOOTH NAISMITH'S ROUTE
This is an exposed Severe and is intimidating. Not only is it a hard climb but coming right near the end of the ridge it could hardly be in a worse place when both physical and mental energy levels will be at a low.

BYPASS Traverse around on screes between Bealach nan Lice and Bealach a Bhasteir. The Bhasteir Tooth and Am Basteir are completely bypassed and a Severe climb is replaced by a walk. The downside is a loss of height and the associated extra ascent, but it’s much easier and quicker. Some will want to tick Am Basteir since it’s a Munro and it can be accessed by its E. Ridge (mainly a grade 2 scramble apart from the Difficult Bad Step).

5. ADDITIONAL BYPASSES
The aim is to finish, and several additional bypasses may make that possible.

• The three summits of Bidein are complicated summits that can be bypassed by the screes on the Glen Brittle side. By taking this bypass linking Bealach na Glaic Moire and Bealach Harta, a lot of time can be saved. A speedy walk replaces complex scrambling and abseils.
• On a minor scale, lots of bits of the ridge can be bypassed with easier traversing a bit below the actual crest. A classic example of this would be the ascent of Sgurr na Banachdich, where the best scrambling is on the crest, but easier lines abound on the Glen Brittle side.
  
• This is probably heretical, but you could just walk around the Inaccessible Pinnacle itself. Perhaps something to consider only if you have climbed it previously and there is a big queue or bad weather.

ADDITIONAL POINTS TO INCREASE YOUR CHANCES

To a certain extent, the weather can be the final arbiter, but there are lots of ways to increase your chances of success.

1. CATCH THE MISTY ISLE BOAT FROM ELGOL
Not just an enjoyable boat trip but it means the shortest possible walk in and a good chance of keeping your feet dry even in approach shoes.

2. FITNESS
The fitter you are, the better, and it’s best if the fitness is gained in a relevant way such as hill walking and scrambling. Get out and practice, get fit and get used to being in the hills in the footwear you will be wearing for the ridge and carrying a pack full of gear.

3. CLIMBING ABILITY
There is one section of the ridge that is very complicated and doesn’t have any bypass. The four tops of Sgurr a Mhadaidh involve graded climbs of Moderate (3rd top) and Difficult (2nd top). Thus, this is the benchmark section, the one place that could stop you. In dry conditions, the climbing is fairly straight forward but if it’s wet then difficulties increase. Thus, the ability to climb to Difficult is really the lowest common denominator. Despite the very name, Difficult isn’t that hard in the whole scheme of climbing grades. With a bit of practice, it is achievable especially if you are doing the ridge with a friend or guide who can lead the technical pitches.

Any pre-ridge experience or practice is a bonus and lots of people have access to indoor climbing walls where it is possible to gain the necessary climbing and abseil skills. But don’t despair if you aren’t an experienced climber. One client had never climbed or abseiled, so we spent a pre ridge day on the In Pinn which allowed them to experience both roped climbing and an abseil. However, the client was extremely fit and had extensive walking and scrambling experience and this was what really ensured success.

With the Cuillin Ridge Light there are very few technical climbing pitches and the majority of the terrain is rough walking and miles of scrambling. Scrambling is really the terrain which can determine success or not. All the scrambles can be protected by ropes but this can become a very protracted process and to succeed you need to be happy scrambling without the need for a rope apart from on the most exposed sections.

4. PRE-PLACING GEAR
Food, water and bivi gear can be pre-placed thus saving a lot of weight in packs. On the downside this means you are absolutely committed to reaching your pre-selected location and need to factor in a day to place the gear and another to retrieve it. Another possibility is to start off with bivi gear, use it for the bivi at the end of the first day then leave it for later retrieval.

5. HIRE A GUIDE
By hiring a guide or going with an experienced climber friend who knows the ridge you will improve your chances of completing the ridge by a quantum leap. Not only will you get someone that knows the route and the best line to take but they will be able to safeguard you with a rope on the technical sections.

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