Skye's Cuillin Ridge Traverse

Map key

Overview map

Location of practice routes

Introduction

Preparation and training

Strategy and tactics

Gear

Navigation

Climbing, scrambling and ropework

Grades

Weather

Geology of the Black Cuillin

Logistics

Reasons for failure

Beyond the ridge

Using this guide

Classic scrambles

Route 1 Round of Fionn Choire

Route 2 The Spur, Sgurr an Fheadain

Route 3 South South East Buttress, Sgurr na Stri

Route 4 Thuilm Ridge, Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh

Route 5 South Ridge, Sgurr Coir’ an Lochain

Route 6 The Dubh Ridge

Route 7 Round of Coire Lagan

Route 8 Pinnacle Ridge, Sgurr nan Gillean

Route 9 Clach Glas – Bla Bheinn Traverse

Route 10 Central South Buttress, An Caisteal

The Cuillin traverse in winter

Route 11 The winter traverse

Appendix A Summary of classic scrambles

Appendix B Further reading, webcams and accommodation

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A superbly written and well put together guide book for the Cuillin Ridge

A superbly written and well put together guide book for the Cuillin Ridge and other popular Cuillin Scrambles. Detailed maps and photographs with optional routes that can be taken. Realistic and never underestimating the ridge and a true reflection of the climbing grades for some of the rock climbs. A book that will join me on my working and personal trips on the ridge from now on instead of a plastic bag full of bits of paper. Well done Cicerone Press and Adrian Trendall.

Adele, for the Alpine Club.

A myriad of detail and information that will greatly assist the completion of the Cuillin Ridge Traverse in both summer and winter... an outstanding publication.

Thirty-five years ago I failed to traverse the Cuillin Ridge. I had never climbed on Skye before, and naively thought that a 9am start from Slichagan would give me enough time to complete the route and meet my new girlfriend at the other end in Glen Brittle at 5pm. It soon became clear that traversing the 12km-long Cuillin Ridge required far more than a mixture of blind optimism tinged with youthful fitness. Needless to say after innumerable route finding errors I was an hour late for my rendezvous, and had missed out the last two Munros. This failure has niggled me ever since, and it was another 25 years before I finally made a complete traverse. There is no question that if I had read Adrian Trendall’s superb guidebook Skye’s Cuillin Ridge Traverse, I would have been far better prepared first time around.

Whilst [there are a number of] publications [with] route descriptions of the Ridge, Skye’s Cuillin Ridge Traverse is the first print guidebook to purely focus on the traverse.

I’ve never met author Adrian Trendall, but clearly he is an accomplished climber as well as being a mountain guide and photographer. Based in Skye and living at the foot of the Cuillin, Adrian is ideally placed to write this guidebook.

Skye’s Cuillin Ridge Traverse is a cleverly designed publication that consists of two volumes held together in a plastic sleeve. The first volume describes the strategy and tactics for a successful traverse together with ten classic scrambles that can be used for reconnaissance and preparation. The second is a topo booklet describing the traverse itself. Both volumes are illustrated with Harvey Maps, which is undoubtedly the clearest mapping of the Cuillin published to date. The idea is that you leave the first volume in the valley, and take the second with you on the traverse. This slim volume weighs a mere 100 grams (20 grams more than the Harvey map) and contains all the information you need while climbing the route.

Skye’s Cuillin Ridge Traverse is written for the more general mountaineer. Adrian explains that although the Cuillin Ridge is “a huge challenge, it is achievable by many climbers, and here lies much of its appeal.” His approach is deliberately set out to be helpful and puts great emphasis on making everything work in your favour through maximising information up front together with careful preparation. Adrian suggests that the Cuillin Ridge attempts can be divided into CREST (Cuillin Ridge Expedition Style Traverse) or TRIAD (The Ridge In A Day). Both strategies have the pros and cons, and Adrian carefully outlines the recipes for success.

The first volume also includes a description of a winter traverse. This is normally done North to South (the opposite direction to summer) to allow the major difficulties to be abseiled. In recent years, winter traverses of the Cuillin Ridge have become more common. Adrian advocates to attempt the winter traverse when the underfoot conditions and weather are benign, and for maximising your chances of success, this makes absolute sense.

All great guidebooks are labours of love, and clearly a huge amount of local knowledge, experience, thought and care have gone into this production. It contains a myriad of detail and information that will greatly assist the completion of the Cuillin Ridge Traverse in both summer and winter. Adrian Trendall and Cicerone should be congratulated for an outstanding publication.

Simon Richardson, Scottish Winter

Full review here: http://www.scottishwinter.com/?p=7275