An essential guide to planning your first hut-to-hut trip in the Alps

What is an Alpine Mountain hut?

Don’t be put off by the word ‘hut’ – these are not camping sheds! A mountain hut can otherwise be known as a refuge in France, rifugio in Italian, cabane in parts of Switzerland, and hütte in German-speaking areas. In Slovenia they are dom or koča. Whatever the name, this extensive network of welcoming shelters will form the glue to your journey as you thread your way through the mountains on an alpine trek.

Most mountain huts are like hostels, usually with a mixture of dormitory accommodation and rooms. In nearly every case toilet and washing facilities will be communal, and occasionally multi-gender. Dormitories nowadays tend to be rooms with between four and twelve separate bunks, although occasionally you will come across some where multiple sleeping spaces are arranged on a long sleeping platform – less appealing, but still a safe bed for the night!

Most mountain huts open during the summer trekking season between mid-June and the end of September, and will have a resident guardian and staff (or family) who prepare and serve meals and refreshments, and generally look after running the hut. The guardian will have an extensive knowledge of the mountains in the vicinity, and be able to give advice on the nature of your intended route the following day, as well as provide suggestions if you need alternatives. Most have a mountain guiding qualification of some sort, so the advice you receive will be reliable. Some huts are more like mountain inns; amazing places far from the nearest road or village, but offering good facilities in a truly magical location.

What facilities and services do mountain huts provide?

Mountain huts come in all shapes, sizes and ages, and many very high or remote huts will often have fewer facilities – but that should definitely not be a reason for missing out on staying in a truly spectacular spot for the night.

Every hut will have the following facilities, although every one is different – sleeping accommodation, toilet and washing facilities, a common room/dining room, and a balcony, terrace or garden outside. Some huts also have small kitchens for guests to use.

Sleeping accommodation and facilities

Dormitory accommodation consists of a mattress, pillow and duvet or blankets per person. You will need your own sleeping bag liner, although you can usually rent one when you arrive. Towels are not generally provided. Dormitories usually have a shelf of alcove for you to store your gear and rucksack, and if you're lucky there may be a small shelf to to act as a bedside table for your headtorch/glasses/watch.

Most huts have showers, however these may not be guaranteed to be either hot or running, as many huts rely on solar power to heat hot water and provide electricity. Try not to be too disappointed – it's almost certainly only for one night!

Hand washing your clothes and socks can generally be done in the afternoon and there is often a washing line outside – or a fence or warm rock to dry things.

Most huts will have electric charging facilities for phones, gps, watches. You will need your own charging cables.

Meals

The best option is to book half board (evening meal and breakfast). A packed lunch or a sandwich can usually be ordered for the following day.

A breakfast of tea/coffee or hot chocolate, cereal, bread and jam is the usual offering. If the hut is accessible by 4x4 vehicles, then you may be lucky and have more options, including yogurt, fruit juice etc.

Lunch in a hut may well be an option if you pass one at around the right time. Lunch can usually include soup, bread and cake or a fruit tart, and once again some huts will be able to provide many more options.

Supper is the highlight, when everyone assembles together. A typical supper will be three or four courses – soup (pasta in Italy), salad, a meat/vegetarian dish with carbohydrate (rice, polenta, potato, pasta), and a simple desert. Cheese may also be offered as an additional course.

Drinks can range from a fully stocked bar to a few standard choices, but you will always be able to get drinking water (even if it has to be bottled), and it's unusual not to be able to get a beer, wine, and various soft drinks, as well as some pretty potent alpine liqueurs!

The dining room

This is the heart of the hut experience. Everyone eats at the same time, and you will start your meal among strangers, and finish as friends. The room will also act as a general common room, where you can eat and drink snacks, spread out maps and make plans. To while away any long afternoons in poor weather here will usually be a good collection of mountain books to browse and board games too.

The boot room and outside

When you arrive, walking poles and boots/shoes remain in the boot room and hut shoes (usually 'Crocks') are provided, or you can wear your own shoes. Wet waterproofs should stay here too, unless there is a drying room provided. If it's good weather, enjoy the late afternoon sunshine outside, usually with fantastic views all around, and watch the sunset and 'alpenglow' at the end of the day.

Where should I start?

You might want to start by following a recognised trek that may well be signed on the ground, or pick one of the treks covered by a Cicerone guidebook. This makes planning easier, as there will be all the information you need in the guidebook, which can often be supplemented by a variety of websites providing additional insight and highlights. You may have visited an area of the alps and enjoyed a few day walks from a valley base, and now plan to explore the region further and make up your own multi-day trek, not confined to accommodation in the valley.

Most people have heard of the Tour of Mont Blanc, circumnavigating the Mont Blanc massif through France, Italy and Switzerland. Views are incredible, and there is a wide range of huts, gîtes and other accommodation, but it's international allure makes it extremely busy, especially during July and August, and accommodation needs to be booked months in advance. It's generally without difficulty and can be completed in around 8-12 days, or even split into two or three shorter treks if necessary. The other trek most people will have heard of is a linear trek from Chamonix to Zermatt, through the Swiss Valais between Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn. This 12-14 day route is more challenging, and encounters some steeper, higher cols, but once again your efforts are rewarded with incredible views, and there are options to split the route into shorter treks.

But you may want to start with something different!

Can I plan my own trek?

In short, yes!

Pick an area of the alps that interests you, whether an area you have previously visited, or somewhere new to explore, and get planning! Look for interesting features or villages that you think will be worthwhile visiting, determine how long you have available and where you will be able to easily start and finish, and you're on your way to devising your very own trek.

Maps: Hiking maps, both online and sheet maps will normally show the location of mountain refuges. As a rule of thumb for walkers of average ability, if you're looking at a 1:50,000 sheet map you'll probably manage one handspan distance in a day (or two handspans on a 1:25,000 scale). It's a quick way to get things plotted out without getting too technical at this stage. Next look at the terrain between these points, and adjust if you think it's going to be easier or harder that most of the other days. It you're using online mapping you will generally be able to plot a route between two points to determine the distance, time and ascent/descent quite easily.

Suggested useful websites are at the bottom of this page.

Top 10 tips for a first-time Alpine trekker...

1. Accommodation Try to book your mountain huts well ahead of your trip dates. This is especially important if you are planning to visit a popular area or do a popular trek. For the Tour of Mont Blanc, Chamonix to Zermatt or Alta Via 1 in the Dolomites, plan and book your accommodation as soon as you know your dates, ideally by February for a summer trek, by March for the shoulder season.
2. Get into good shape To truly enjoy your trek, you will need to be fit enough to tackle each day, which will often involve 800m or more of up and down and 15–20km, and know you can do the same tomorrow – and the day after! Build up fitness over two or three months, gradually increasing walking distance and difficulty, and practice with your boots and backpack. Make sure everything fits well. Ideally, include a 2–3 day walking trip towards the end of your training.
3. Choose the best gear Outdoor gear is often expensive, but excellent brands can often be purchased at a discount or second hand. You will need boots with a good sole, as rocks can be slippery, sharp and rough. Ideally waterproof for rain or snow, make sure they're comfortable and a good fit. Waterproof jacket and trousers are essential even in the summer – ensure they are just that – waterproof – as you might be out all day in heavy rain. A rucksack cover is useful too. Walking poles are a good idea, to make long descents more comfortable, and help with ascents too, but make sure you are happy using them, and try to get the lightest, (but strong) pair you can afford. You will need a well-fitting rucksack to carry all your gear, a 25–35l pack is ideal (otherwise you will be tempted to carry too much!)
4. Keep your pack light Remember, the more you carry, the harder it is – just imagine carrying two carrier bags of shopping up 800m! Tips to reduce weight – keep all toiletries small (use multi-purpose shower gel/shampoo/wash), keep electronic gadgets and chargers to a minimum as these can be heavy, use a silk sleeping liner and lightweight pack towel, choose clothing and shoes that are light and packable, (but make sure you have warm clothing too), plan to wash clothing as you go.
5. Stay well organised and prepared Read up the route description the night before and make a mental note of any key points along the way (steep sections of climbing, shelters, water, turns and alternative routes that might be missed in bad weather). Check the suggested timings for your route and be aware of your progress. Check out the weather forecast and pack waterproofs near the top of your pack if rain is likely. Organise your gear in the rucksack in separate bags (ideally waterproof stuff sacks) – eg,. clothing, outer gear, things you will need in the refuge, sundries, food.
6. Start early, finish early Start each day as soon as you can after breakfast, so that you are well on your way before summer temperatures get too hot. Try to keep cool and wear a sunhat if the sun is very intense and aim to arrive at your next accommodation in good time – early afternoon, ideally. That will allow maximum time to rest and recover, read up and plan the route for tomorrow and to do all chores.
7. Walking each day Take things steady, if possible, for the first two or three days, as this will help you recover from travelling, acclimatise to the altitude and avoid injuries and muscle strains that could ruin your trek later on. Try to settle into a steady pace that you can sustain. Stop for a rest regularly (it’s not a race!) and keep eating small snacks to maintain energy levels. Carry a minimum of 1litre of water and keep well hydrated. Enjoy the views and take plenty of photos, but if the weather is challenging, concentrate on following the route.
8. Staying in a refuge The guardian will confirm your reservation and show you to your room or allocated mattress in a dormitory. Lay out your bedding while it’s easy to see what you are doing, then, if available, have a shower and do any washing. It’s hard to prioritise when all you want is to sit down and have a beer, but washing will dry well in late- afternoon sunshine and there are usually spaces on a line or fence. Sit in your allocated seat at mealtimes and enjoy the company. Pay at the end of the evening and keep quiet after 9pm. Ensure you have everything packed away before leaving – it’s easy to miss small things like toothpaste, a charger, gloves…or the washing still on the line!
9. About the weather You may be lucky and enjoy cloudless skies for the entire trip, doubtless running out of suntan cream by around halfway. Sun exposure in the high mountains is more intense, so ensure you have high-factor protection. If a wet-weather system passes through, it may last for a day or two but is likely to clear quickly. Thunderstorms in the late afternoon during high summer are always possible, another good reason for starting out early and arriving during the afternoon. Snow and hail showers can occur at any time of year in the Alps, covering paths and signs and especially making high passes difficult and very slippery underfoot.
10. Is it cheating to use lifts and buses? In some instances, it may be a good idea to take advantage of lifts – to shorten an otherwise long or very wet day, or to help with a long steep descent. Buses can also take some of the strain, especially if you are on a tight schedule. Your trek is YOURS. There are no prizes for the longest, shortest or most difficult treks, you choose what suits you and your companions, and enjoy it for what it is.