How to Prepare for the K2 Trek in Pakistan's Karakoram

When is the best time to visit the Karakoram?

In the summer, the Indian continent is drenched by the monsoon rains, but the clouds are emptied by the time they reach the Karakoram, so the area generally remains unaffected. Precipitation typically occurs during the cold winter, spring and sometimes in the beginning of the summer, which means the best time to visit the mountains is from the end of spring through summer until the beginning of autumn.

Karakoram summer trekking can be extremely hot. At altitude, thin air filters less light meaning on a cloudless day there is stronger radiation, which can increase the temperature considerably. During the night, the temperatures drop again. A difference of 30°C can occur between day and night-time at altitude. Another factor to consider is the average drop of 0.6°C temperature for every 100 metres of climb. High passes are clear of snow and the temperatures at altitude are just bearable in the summer. The wind controls the mountains: in wintertime, the wind blows from the west, and during summer, it blows from the east, blowing a very dry wind with hardly any precipitation left. While the summer avoids most of the snow, cold, and rain, there can still be too much snow on the Gondogoro La in June and July, making it impossible to cross. September is preferable, as it's less hot and less busy.

How do I apply for a tourist visa for the Karakoram?

Pakistan has an online visa application process for most international travellers, which can be accessed via: https://visa.nadra.gov.pk. Allow yourself plenty of time to complete the application, and it will be successful. Several documents must be uploaded as part of a tourist visa application: photograph, passport, hotel booking details (and details of your trek). There is lots of helpful information on the website, clarifying requirements for each step of the visa application process. Ensure you allow a minimum of six weeks before departure to get your visa. Stories abound of visitors not getting their visas in time and having to cancel their trips! Print out your visa and always carry it along with your passport.

Do I require any permits?

When trekking (and climbing) in the mountains of Pakistan, permits and other paperwork are required and must be processed via a licensed Pakistani tour operator. Certain mountain areas are accessible without permits (see each trek and ask a tour operator). The areas close to the ceasefire line with India are restricted and the British Foreign Office advises against all travel within 10 miles of the Line of Control. The trekking permits will be arranged by the tour operators.

Can I travel independently? Do I need to use a local tour operator to go trekking?

Independent travel is possible in this area, but for trekking you must go through a licensed tour operator. These tour operators organise all the logistics, domestic transport, hotels, necessary papers and permits, plus contact with helicopter rescue services.

In Pakistan, tour operators are part of PATO (Pakistan Association of Tour Operators www.pato.org.pk). The PATO website lists more than 150 members; to find the best tour operator, check out a couple and compare services and prices. Baltistan Tours (www.baltistantours.com) has been my choice since 1989.

Is trekking in Pakistan expensive?

Trekking is not cheap in Pakistan and every year the prices are going up, so you will need to check the pricing of the different tour operators carefully. Trekking costs include local transport (flight, jeeps), accommodation and food; wages for the local tour operator, staff, porters, and herders of pack animals; insurance for staff; camp equipment; daily prices for using tents at campsites (Rs 1500.00 PKR for each small tent, Rs 2000.00 PKR for each big tent); a cleaning fee to be paid at every camp; and a one-time entry amount to the Central Karakoram National Park (CKNP) (£120/€140/$150).

It is impossible to publish a trek price since it would already have changed by the time this article goes to print. However, as a rough estimate, you could anticipate paying £150/€175/$190 per day for a land-only trek to K2 and £160/€185/$200 per day for a land-only trek to Gondogoro La (not including jeeps).

How do I get to Pakistan?

By Air

Pakistan's major cities—Karachi, Islamabad, and Lahore—are accessible via direct and indirect flights. Islamabad is the easiest to reach, offering the most domestic flight options. Skardu International Airport began receiving flights from Dubai in 2023, and more airlines may follow.

Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) has some flights from Europe, while other options include British Airways, Emirates, Qatar Airways, Etihad Airways, Turkish Airlines, Gulf Air, Thai Airways, and Air China. Always check flight schedules, as they frequently change.

Islamabad's modern airport (opened in 2018) has good facilities but is located far from the city, making taxis expensive. A metrobus offers affordable transport to Islamabad and Rawalpindi, but not at night. Allow an extra hour to enter the airport when departing.

By Road

For information on border crossings and Silk Road travel, visit caravanistan.com. It’s best to arrange a visa in advance to avoid border issues.

• From India: The main crossing is at Wagah, between Amritsar and Lahore. While usually open to foreigners, it can close unexpectedly due to political tensions.
• From China: Via the China National Highway 314 and Karakoram Highway through the scenic Khunjerab Pass (4,714m). A daily bus runs between Kashgar and Gilgit.
• From Afghanistan: There are eight formal crossings, with more planned. The Khyber Pass near Peshawar is the most well-known. There are also crossings from Iran, though travel is risky due to past kidnappings and murders. Western governments often advise against travel to Afghanistan and Iran.

What about getting around in Pakistan?

By Plane

Pakistan offers several domestic flight routes, crucial for trekkers heading to Skardu, Gilgit, and Chitral. These routes are served by PIA and Air Blue. Skardu has daily flights from various Pakistani cities, with additional flights during peak seasons, and now has international flights since 2023. Domestic flights are expensive, partly subsidising local fares. These flights are increasingly popular for Pakistanis seeking cooler climates or honeymoon destinations. Flights are weather-dependent, but Skardu airport has recently been upgraded to an international "all-weather" airport. The views from these flights are spectacular, especially Nanga Parbat. Secure a window seat (right side when flying to Skardu, left side on the return). Upon arrival at Skardu airport, foreign tourists should visit the registration desk to have their passports and visas checked. Your tour agent or local guide will assist with obtaining trekking permits.

By Helicopter

Helicopter safaris from Skardu to K2 Base Camp are available but expensive. The journey takes 2–2.5 hours, including a refuelling stop at Paiju. Check Askari Aviation for updated prices and guidelines.

By Bus

If flights are unavailable, buses offer an adventurous alternative to reach Gilgit or Skardu. The Karakoram Highway (KKH) is a 1,300 km route connecting Pakistan and China, completed in 1978 after 20 years of construction. The road requires continuous maintenance, with the latest major works finished in 2020. The drive from Islamabad to Gilgit takes 8–10 hours, and to Skardu 12–13 hours, with the last 170 km off the KKH. Public buses take longer and must be arranged independently. Armed tourist police may accompany travellers if needed.

Metro Bus in Islamabad/Rawalpindi

An air-conditioned, low-cost rapid bus system connects Islamabad and Rawalpindi to the Islamabad airport, but it does not operate at night.

By Taxi

Taxis are widely available in cities but can be expensive, especially for airport transfers. Meters are not common.

By Minibus

Minibuses operate in Skardu and Gilgit, offering a cheap travel option if you know the destination names.

On Horseback

Rarely used except in emergencies, costing around £60 per day on the K2 trek.

By Bike

Mountain bikes are available for hire in Gilgit and Skardu.

What accommodation is available?

Hotels are available across Pakistan in all price ranges. The Skardu and Baltistan region alone has hundreds of options, with Gilgit, Skardu, and Khaplu offering good hotels, though options become simpler as you go further. Notable exceptions include the Serena Hotel in Shigar and Khaplu and the Karakoram Lodge in Khaplu for budget travellers. Skardu alone has around 80 hotels, and in Hushe, there’s a refuge. For city accommodations, check websites, guidebooks, or consult local tour operators.

Pakistan also has youth hostels, some offering B&B services, while others, like those in Gilgit, provide lodging only. Official campsites exist in Islamabad and Peshawar, but small hotels and guesthouses often allow camping in their gardens. Wild camping is not recommended in tribal areas due to safety concerns.

What's the food and drink like?

Pakistani cooking is really something to look forward to. In hotels, a buffet is often served for all three meals, but à la carte is also often available. Alcohol consumption is illegal; however, in a few international hotels you might find a bar serving alcohol. A special permit allows non-Muslims to buy alcohol. Sometimes Chinese beer can be found in the Northern Areas, or Hunza ‘water’.

On trek, food is just as good as in the restaurants in town. Quite often, the cook and kitchen crew on trek will work the off-season in the city restaurants. So, they are well trained to make some good food, to keep trekkers going throughout the day. Supplies are carried for the whole trek since there are no villages along most trek routes where shopping is possible. A kitchen crew normally uses a big kitchen tent. They are very particular in keeping everything as clean as possible, knowing that guests might get an upset tummy if they do not. If you happen to be on trek during Ramadan, when the staff are probably fasting during the day, do try to understand and appreciate the effort they make to maintain the service level despite going without any food or drink during the day themselves.

Breakfast: a selection of cereals, porridge, toast, eggs, cheese spread, marmalade, tea, coffee.

Lunch: while on trek this will be a packed lunch with all kinds of items. If the day is short enough (a warm) lunch can be served in camp.

Dinner: soup, main dish, dessert, and tea/coffee/hot chocolate.

Water on trek: Normally, at dinnertime, the staff collect the empty water bottles and bags to fill them with boiled water. At lunchtime, there is not always water available, so bring along enough when a long day is on the programme.

Snacks: some Pakistani companies provide snacks, otherwise bring your favourite!

What should I know about money?

Money – Pakistani Rupees – is needed for shopping, drinks, and tipping. To be on the safe side bring (bigger notes) cash in UK pounds, US dollars or Euros. The notes should be without markings or tears. Convert some of them on arrival at the airport or in town. Changing your money at the stopover airports such as Doha, Istanbul, etc is best. At the airport in Islamabad, some banks might be open. It is best to change money there as it is less easy to do this in town. Sometimes it is not possible at all to change money at your hotel, or if it is possible, it will be at a very unfavourable rate. There are ATM machines at the airport and in the cities, but most of them don’t work (normally Standard Charter Bank/ATM accept all cards). There is a good choice of money exchangers in the Blue Sector in Islamabad. When leaving Pakistan, it should be possible to exchange Pakistani Rupees into other currencies at the airport or you can leave left-over cash in designated charity collections at the airport.

Wages for staff

Porters are paid for each stage they walk up and receive half pay for each stage they walk back again, even if they leave the trek early. They are also paid on rest days. As well as porters, more and more pack animals are being used these days. Try to employ porters rather than pack animals since the porters are more efficient.

A K2 trek, one-way, is typically a seven-day or nine-stage trek (stages are also called haltages in local English, or pyee in Balti). Some trekking days cover two stages. Beyond Urdukas camp, porter wages can be a bit higher.

Wages in 2023 for porters would be Rs 1500.00 PKR per stage (plus a daily ration of sugar, rice, flour, salt and tea). Sometimes the kitchen crew will cook some dishes for the porters.

Tips

Tips are expected in hotels. When you leave, tip housekeeping staff, bellboys, door guards, kitchen staff, and restaurant staff.

• bell boy Rs 300.00 PKR
• door guard Rs 200.00 PKR
• housekeeping staff Rs 500.00 PKR (in 2023)

Tips are also expected on treks and depend on the number of days and stages. To give a rough indication, for a recent K2 trek, each client was asked to reserve £120 or €140 as a tip for the whole staff. Besides a monetary tip at the end of a trek, consider donating any still-usable outdoor equipment to the trekking staff.