GR20 experience: tackling Europe’s toughest hiking trail

Hi Abbie, it sounds like you had an amazing experience on the GR20. What drew you to the trek in the first place?

The GR20 is known as Europe’s toughest trek, and as a prolific long-distance backpacker, I was curious to see if it lived up to its reputation and why. As a filmmaker, I wanted to document the experience – its challenges and rewards – and use the trail as a metaphor for overcoming life’s obstacles. I was also drawn by Corsica’s remote, rugged terrain and unpredictable weather, which promised a test of grit and resilience. On a personal level, after undergoing a gender-affirming surgery earlier in the year, I wanted to gauge my physical strength and work through this mental and physical challenge.

What time of year did you go?

I went in September, just as the season was easing into autumn. It’s considered the shoulder season, with many huts closing by October, so I caught the trail just before things started winding down.

Is it a self-guided trek?

Yes, I did the trek self-guided, meaning I didn’t have a guide. I was solo, navigating and planning my days on the trail, with the Cicerone GR20 guidebook as my main companion. It was a lifesaver at many points and a real comfort to have by my side.

Have you done any comparable treks?

I’ve tackled many long-distance trails, both in Europe and internationally, including Kilimanjaro and Jebel Toubkal in winter, but nothing compares to the GR20. The trail is uniquely exposed and airy, with a lot of steep vertical scrambling and sections where you use chains to climb. It’s a truly solo experience, and I found myself comparing it to my Mont Blanc climb, which, despite its challenges, is done as a team, roped together. While Mont Blanc involves snow, elevation, and scrambles, the GR20 felt even more difficult due to the solitude, navigation, and unpredictable weather. When people ask if the GR20 or the Tour de Mont Blanc is harder, the GR20 is leagues above. The Tour de Mont Blanc is much busier, has more amenities, and lacks the same intensity – GR20 definitely lives up to its reputation as Europe’s toughest trek, at least amongst the ones I’ve done.

What was the best part of the trek?

The best part of the trek for me was the views. The landscape, the mountainous spine of Corsica, is vast, rocky, wild, and almost incomprehensible. It’s so different from the landscapes we have in the UK. While we have beautiful, varied mountains in places like the Lake District, Snowdonia, and the Cairngorms, they don’t compare to the barrenness and harshness of Corsica. The landscape is dry, and water is rare, but in that harshness lies so much beauty. It mirrors the inner journey we all go through. For me, nature is full of metaphors, and Corsica’s mountains spoke a language that pushed me to my edge, but I’m grateful for it.

Another highlight was when I came across water. The crystal-clear pools surrounded by panoramic views of mountains were an absolute joy. Stripping down to my boxers and jumping in to cool off was such a refreshing experience, and it was made even more special when shared with other hikers. There was a real sense of awe, hardship, perseverance, and community.

Finally, the sense of reward at the end of each day was incredible. The trail was tough physically and mentally, but reaching the tent, dormitory, or hut at the end of the day was such a relief. It felt like a real reward knowing you were safe, had food and water, and could finally rest.

What was the worst part of the trek?

For me, the worst part was undoubtedly the weather. Corsica is notorious for its extreme thunderstorms, which were unlike anything I'd experienced. Between 11 am and 3 pm daily, storms would roll in with thick clouds, icy hail, and flooding rains. The trail would turn into rivers, temperatures would plummet, and tents would often collapse under the deluge. This meant starting early in the dark – many hikers began as early as 4am – to reach the next hut before the storms. Instead of enjoying a trek, it often felt like a race against the weather, which could be mentally exhausting and isolating, especially when hiking alone.

Is the GR20 as challenging as people say?

Yes, it absolutely is. Many assume the difficulty lies in the terrain – and it’s true, the terrain is rugged and unforgiving – but that’s just one layer of the challenge. The weather adds a whole new dimension, dictating your routine and forcing you to adapt to harsh conditions. On top of that, staying in tents or dormitories brings its own difficulties. The tents often leak during storms, and the dormitories, though shelter, are basic and overcrowded.

What makes the trek so hard?

Beyond the terrain and weather, several factors make the GR20 challenging:

• Language barriers: Corsicans speak French and Italian, and English isn’t widely spoken in remote areas. Communicating with hut staff could be difficult, which added stress.
• Hygiene: Facilities are primitive. Clean water wasn’t always guaranteed, and I got ill despite filtering it. The floods often contaminated water sources and soap wasn’t provided.
• Food: As a vegetarian, I struggled to get enough calories. Many huts served set meals, usually containing meat, so I relied heavily on bread and cheese. Resupplying required constant attention.
• Isolation: Being off-grid without contact with loved ones.

Can the trail be broken intro sections?

Yes, the trail can be broken into segments. If you're determined to experience the GR20 but feel uncertain about the whole trek, I recommend starting with the southern section. Vizzavona acts as the dividing point between the north and south. The northern section is more technical, with frequent scrambles, steep ascents and descents, and exposed ridges requiring ropes and chains. The southern section, while still challenging, is slightly less exposed, with more consistent access to accommodation, the option to exit the trail, and better mobile signal for checking weather conditions. This connectivity can make the hike feel safer and more manageable, especially for less experienced trekkers.

What was the accommodation like? Did you book in advance?

The accommodation was very basic. Dormitories could hold 30–50 people in tight rows with little privacy, and the hire tents were simple pop-ups that didn’t hold up well against storms. In the shoulder season, booking in advance wasn’t necessary and actually became a hassle when I fell ill and needed to change plans. However, I’d recommend booking during the main season as dormitories can fill up, especially when bad weather drives hikers out of their tents.

What was the food like?

The food was hit-and-miss. Some huts sold snacks like crisps, chocolate, and the famous Corsican chestnut cake, while others offered set menus with little variety. Meals typically included soup, a main course (often with meat), and a dessert. As a vegetarian, I often found myself eating bread and cheese, though Corsican sheep’s cheese quickly became a staple and surprise favourite of mine.

What about the Cicerone guidebook?

The Cicerone guidebook became my constant companion on the GR20. It felt like having a supportive friend with me through the daily challenges of the hike. Reading ahead about the upcoming leg of the trail gave me comfort and a sense of preparedness, which was crucial for building resilience each morning. When I fell ill, the guidebook was invaluable – it provided the information I needed to exit the trail and find a way to recover safely. The additional sections with excursions and alternative routes were particularly useful, allowing me to adapt my hike to my circumstances.

While it’s one of the heftier guidebooks, every page felt essential given the various challenges I encountered. It’s an excellent resource, and I genuinely cannot imagine tackling the GR20 without it. I highly recommend it to anyone planning to take on this trail.

Would you do the trek again?

Yes, I would absolutely do the GR20 again, but with one significant change: a much lighter backpack. As a filmmaker, a substantial amount of my pack weight came from power banks, cables, batteries, and camera equipment – tripods and other heavy gear – which effectively doubled the base weight of my rucksack. At over 18 kilograms, the pack felt destabilising, especially when scrambling down vertical cliff faces. It was uncomfortable and, at times, unsafe. If I were to do the trek again, minimising my pack weight would be my top priority.

Anything else you'd like people to know?

Do not underestimate this trek. For me, the GR20 was the pinnacle of all my trekking experience to date, and it required every ounce of preparation and resilience I had developed over the years. My routine, my understanding of my gear, and my experience with long-distance hiking allowed me to focus fully on the challenges of this trail. I wouldn't recommend the GR20 as a first long-distance hike – it’s highly technical and physically demanding.

It sounds like an incredible experience, all the best with your next adventure!

Thank you.

Abbie's top 10 tips for tackling the GR20

1. Prepare through experience – Build up to this hike. Ensure you’re a competent hiker with solid fitness, mental resilience, and familiarity with your gear. This is not a trail for experimenting with new equipment.
2. Lighten your pack – Keep your base weight as low as possible to allow for extra water and morale-boosting snacks. Corsica’s sunny climate and limited water sources make hydration essential.
3. Start early each day – Set off between 4am and 6am to avoid afternoon thunderstorms and maximise daylight. Apply sunscreen early to stay protected.
4. Learn basic French and Italian – This will help you with ordering food, booking accommodation, and asking about weather conditions. Even a little knowledge goes a long way.
5. Break down the route – Stick to the suggested itinerary in the Cicerone guidebook. Attempting to combine multiple legs can lead to stress, especially with challenging terrain and weather restrictions.
6. Learn to read the weather – Experience helps here, but it’s also worth asking other hikers and hut staff for updates. Though be prepared for the Corsican shrug—the locals are used to daily thunderstorms and take them in stride!
7. Choose accommodation wisely – Dormitories offer dry spaces and reliable shelter, but if you prefer camping, bring your own tent. The hire tents can be poor quality, and wet weather often exacerbates their issues.
8. Consider multivitamins and electrolytes – Particularly important if you’re vegetarian, as the limited food options on the trail might not provide all the nutrients you need.
9. Filter your water – Clean drinking water isn’t always easily accessible. Bring a reliable filtration system and a backup option for peace of mind.
10. Hike with a partner – Having someone to share decisions and moments of doubt can make the trek feel less intimidating. Plus, turning challenges into shared experiences adds to the joy of the journey.