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Guide to cycling the Canal du Midi in southern France, 240km from Toulouse in the Haute Garonne to Sete on the Mediterranean Coast. The flat, picturesque route is divided into five stages, each around 50km long. Includes detours to sights close to the canal as well as longer excursions, including Narbonne, Minerve, Carcassone and Beziers.
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A guidebook to cycling the Canal du Midi route from Toulouse to Sete on the Mediterranean coast. Covering 260km (162 miles), this long-distance cycle through France’s southern Languedoc can be cycled in 1 week and is suitable for both first-time and experienced long-distance cyclists.
The route is described west to east in 5 stages, each between 40 and 63km (25–39 miles) in length. Optional side trips exploring the countryside and historical towns and villages are also detailed.
Map key
Overview map
INTRODUCTION
Regions of the canal
History
Wildlife
Culture
Cycling the Canal du Midi
When to go
Getting there and getting around
Accommodation
Food and drink
Your bike
What to take
Cycling the towpath
Health and safety
Weather
Maps
Money and communications
Using this guide
THE CANAL DU MIDI
Stage 1 Toulouse to Port Lauragais
Stage 2 Port Lauragais to Carcassone
Excursion 1 From Criminelle lock to St-Ferréol reservoir
Stage 3 Carcassone to Homps
Excursion 2 From Trèbes to Lastours
Excursion 3 From Homps to Minerve
Stage 4 Homps to Béziers
Excursion 4 To Narbonne and Port la Nouvelle
Stage 5 Béziers to Sète
Excursion 5 To Vendres salt lagoon
Excursion 6 Across Portiragnes marshes to Sérignan
Appendix A Stage planning tables
Appendix B Accommodation
Appendix C Useful information
Appendix D English–French glossary
Appendix E Further reading
October 2018
Trains are beginning to get back to normal. There have been bus transfers between Carcassonne and Narbonne since last Tuesday. Some trains are now travelling that line and they should be back to normal by Monday. Note that those planning to use the train on this stretch of line should check in advance until Christmas to make sure that there isn't a bus substitute for continuing works - buses don't have room for or take bikes.
The path too is recovering but there is still mud and water lying on it and in the surrounding area from Carcassonne to Béziers.
The path between the bridge after Portiragnes and Agde is no longer recommended for cycling. Instead, follow the asphalt track as it swings right. Shortly afterwards, come to a cross roads with a road going left from the main road as you travel towards the beach (plage). Cross the main road and follow a sign for Vias. Keep following signs for Vias as this minor road snakes through marsh, campsites and open fields. You pass Port Cassifieres on your right. (Please take the spelling from the book as there is an accent grave on the first e). Continue taking a right turn following signs for Vias. You eventually come to a small track to the left that leads to the Libron works. Continue towards Vias crossing the bridge over the Libron. Pass the Europark on your left until you reach a junction which you go through towards the old stone bridge at Vias.
The get from Vias to Agde, continue on the road on the southside of the canal. Cross over a bridge over a canal leading to the Mediterranean. Swing right and follow this small road as it twists and turns before heading north. Join a main road turning right (D32E12), pass under a bridge carrying a major road (D612) and veering slightly right come to a cycle path which will eventually lead to the banks of the Hérault river. Follow these upriver to the main bridge into the town and continue further if you wish to see Agde's round lock.
16th Oct -
Please be aware due to severe floodings the Canal du Midi canal towpath is not cyclable and is potentially very dangerous for the next few days at least.
Declan Lyons has a lifelong passion for cycling and touring. He was bitten by the bug when, as a teenager in the 1960s, he explored the wilds of Connemara on a rusty three-speed Rudge bicycle. Since then he has toured extensively in Ireland and further afield, including regular trips from the Channel to the Mediterranean. Declan is an advocate of cycle touring – taking time on his cycles and relishing the nature, history and daily life all around. He has toured the region between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean extensively.
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