Classic Galloway: from Loch Trool over Merrick and Craignaw

The Galloway Hills – the Galloway Highlands, they used to be called – are small, but special. They stretch just 20km west to east, and 40km north to south (15 miles by 25) – almost the same size as Snowdonia. Within that area – much of it pathless – Galloway has 23 summits over 2000ft, including four Corbetts (2500-footers).

Little visited by most of us, they've been well loved by a select sort of discriminating hill goer. The outlaws and vagabonds of the 18th century, Faas and Macatericks, loved to lurk here on the fringes of civilisation. The fastnesses of Dungeon were just right for raiding the small farms of the lowlands or grabbing passing hikers and looting our expensive Gore-tex and electronics before dumping us in the convenient swampy corner of Loch Neldricken.

Before that, outlaw King Robert the Bruce hung out in these hills with his 200 mixed mercenary warriors out of Ireland. The convicted murderer and future king relaxed on a comfy boulder on the Rhinns of Kells while planning how to lure the English into an ambush at the edge of Loch Trool. Even John Buchan's hero, Richard Hannay, pursued by the police, a band of sinister foreigners and a 1914-model light aircraft, ‘fixed on Galloway as the best place to go…’

Loch Enoch

The Galloway map reveals a region dotted with lakes, more so than any other area of similar size in the UK. Central to these is Loch Enoch, sprawling across a square mile of granite bedrock with silver granite sand beaches. This sand, composed of sharp quartz crystals, was once used to make whetstones for scythes. Loch Enoch, reputedly bottomless and never freezing, contains a small peat pool on one of its islands, known as the Loch in the Loch. While the first claim is unlikely and the second false, the third is true. People have crossed the ice of Loch Enoch to visit the island and its lochan, and some have swum to the island, though such activities are risky and not recommended.

Granite cools slowly in large masses called plutons, forming millimeter-sized crystals of quartz, feldspar, and a dark iron-rich mineral. Weathering removes the feldspar and dark minerals, leaving sharp-cornered quartz that provides a grippy surface. This process rounds off edges, creating sculptural boulders. The eroded quartz crystals form the pale beaches of Loch Neldricken and Loch Enoch. Essentially, Galloway's distinctive landscape is defined by its granite.

Craignaw exemplifies Galloway granite. Despite being 198m lower than Merrick, Craignaw features bare, glacier-scraped granite slabs. It’s where wild goats roam, and the Devil supposedly plays at bowls with erratic boulders on a rock 'lawn.' A narrow, rocky col called the Nick of the Dungeon leads up to the Devil's Bowling Green. Above it, Craignaw rises with little crags and large half-buried boulders. There's an easier path to the west and then up the gentler slope above Loch Neldricken. The more direct route involves some clambering, but on Craignaw, clambering is fitting.

As the granite pluton cools, it shrinks into regular blocks, with main shrinkage cracks parallel to the top surface. This results in smooth, level slabs ideal for walking. From Point of the Snibe to the Brishie Ridge, much of the terrain involves walking on naked granite. Galloway's lower ground can be particularly grueling, with knee-deep tussocks and ankle-grabbing boulderfields. Despite the challenges, the fit and adventurous will find it thrilling. After crossing Craignaw with an overnight backpack, it’s often preferable to head down to the welcoming shores of Loch Neldricken.

Loch Neldricken

At Loch Neldricken, there's no ice-cream van, pub, or smooth path built by rangers. These amenities would exist if Loch Neldricken were 60 miles southeast, within reach of Keswick town. The notable feature at Loch Neldricken is its "Murder Hole." Described in SR Crockett's The Raiders, this circular, rush-girt corner of the loch was where the fierce tribes of Macaterick and Faa disposed of bodies, as it never froze or revealed a body once submerged. A peaty path leads past an old stone sheepfank to Loch Valley, which is busier and more civilized. From there, the path continues to Loch Trool, and four miles down the road, there is a café selling Gatehouse of Fleet's Cream o' Galloway ice cream.

The true allure of Galloway lies in the walk over Merrick and Craignaw. From the ancient oakwoods of Loch Trool and the airy ridgeline of Neive of the Spit, to the serene Loch Enoch and the granite slabs of Craignaw, this hike encapsulates the essence of Galloway. After this experience, you may not need to return, but you surely will. Happy Galloway!

Best outings from Glen Trool

English general Aymer de Valence marched innocently along the edge of Loch Trool, as Bruce's hillmen lurked high on Mulldonoch ready to roll down the conveniently rounded granite boulders. Aymer had the right idea, even if his timing was a bit off. For a first taste of Galloway, head up the little Glentrool road to the Bruce's Stone monument high above the loch.

Best gentle walk

Circuit of Loch Trool 9.5km (6 miles) with 300m (1000ft) ascent – smooth path

Best ordinary hillwalk

Up and down Merrick by the airy amble along the Neive of the Spit 12.5km (8 miles) with ascent 900m (3000ft) – path rough in places

Best extraordinary hillwalk

Up Merrick by the Neive of the Spit, down to Loch Enoch; head south either by Buchan Hill or by Lochs Neldricken and Valley 13.5km (8½ miles) with ascent 900m (2900ft) ­– some rough going

Best extraordinary non-hillwalk

To Loch Enoch by Buchan Hill and Rig of Loch Enoch, returning by Lochs Neldricken and Valley 11.5km (7½ miles) with ascent 550m (1800ft) – some rough going, a little scrambling on Buchan Hill

The real point of it all

Craignaw and Loch Enoch 15.5km (9½ miles) with ascent 750m (2500ft) – rough but rewarding

The cream o' Galloway

Merrick, Loch Enoch and Craignaw 18km (11 miles) with ascent 1100m (3500ft)