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Allen Fyffe


Allen Fyffe has been an active mountaineer for over 35 years. During much of that time he has been an instructor and guide, and is now the Executive Secretary of the Scottish Mountain Leader Training Board. He has been involved in every aspect of mountaineering and climbing in Scotland, and has done more than 200 new routes in both summer and winter.

In the Alps Allen made the first British ascent of the North Face of Les Droites and the first winter ascent of the Central Spur of Les Courtes. In the Himalaya he made a two- man first ascent of the South-West Flank of Kalanka and the Scottish Pillar on Bhagirathi III. He has also been a member of expeditions to Dhaulaghiri IV, Everest South-West Face and North-East Ridge, Meru and Broad Peak. Along with Iain Peter he made an early ascent of Khan Tengri in the Tein Shan and the first British ascent of Pik Pobeda, and also wrote the highly acclaimed Handbook of Climbing. Allen has also climbed in Canada, Peru and on the big walls in California's Yosemite Valley.