7 Essential Tips for Hiking the GR20 Corsica Trail

The GR20 trail in Corsica is undoubtedly one of the top trails in the world. Its reputation precedes it, and most who trek the route describe it afterwards as one of the toughest they have ever completed. The GR20 climbs high into the mountains and stays there for days, leading ordinary trekkers deep into terrain usually visited only by mountaineers. The scenery is awe-inspiring, with bare rock and sheer cliffs in some parts, contrasting with forests, lakes and alpine pastures in other places. Here are our 7 essential tips for tackling this iconic trail.

Trekking the GR20 Corsica

The High Level Route: Guidebook and map booklet

£17.95

Guidebook to Corsica's GR20, one of Europe's classic treks. The most challenging of the GR long-distance routes, the trail crosses remote mountain terrain and involves plenty of hands-on scrambling. Includes information about accommodation, refreshments and facilities and a separate booklet showing the entire route on IGN 1:25,000 maps.

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Where is Corsica?

Corsica, an island located in the Mediterranean Sea, is the fourth-largest island in the region. Situated to the southeast of France and to the west of Italy, Corsica maintains a long-standing relationship with France, as it is recognised today as a territorial collectivity of the French Republic. The island boasts a rich linguistic heritage, with Corsican serving as the native language, and it originates from the Tuscan dialect of Italy. Despite this, French remains prevalent throughout Corsica and is predominantly used by visitors.

How to get to Corsica?

Corsica can be reached by regular flights or ferries, while more adventurous travellers might consider an overland approach through Europe using long-distance trains or coaches. Getting to Corsica is considerably easier than getting around Corsica, so choose an entry point that has good connections with the GR20 and ensure that on completion of the trek, you will be able to reach your exit point in good time.

By far the easiest way to reach Corsica is to fly, and there are four airports on the island – Bastia http://bastia.aeroport.fr, Calvi http://calvi.aeroport.fr, Ajaccio www.2a.cci.fr/Aeroport-Napoleon-Bonaparte-Ajaccio.html, and Figari www.2a.cci.fr/Aeroport-Figari-Sud-Corse.html. Easyjet, www.easyjet.com, flies from London Gatwick to Bastia and Figari. British Airways, www.britishairways.com, flies from London Heathrow to Bastia and Figari.

Those travelling overland through France by car, coach or train will find that ports such as Nice or Marseille provide the most straightforward ferry connections to Corsica. Check with Eurolines, www.eurolines.com, or Eurostar, www.eurostar.com, to find good coach or rail connections to the ports.

Ferries from ports such as Nice, Toulon, Marseille and Livorno serve the Corsican ports of Ajaccio, Bastia, Propriano, L’Île Rousse and Porto Vecchio. The main ferry operators are Corsica Linea, www.corsicalinea.com, La Méridionale, www.lameridionale.fr, Moby Lines, www.mobylines.fr, and Corsica Ferries, www.corsica-ferries.fr.

How long is the GR20 Corsica?

The GR20 Corsica is a 190km (118 mile) trail that starts in Calenzana and finishes in Conca. It is considered to be one of the most difficult hiking trails in Europe. The ‘classic’ route can be covered in a fortnight, but discerning trekkers will be happy to include variations, such as climbing some of the nearby mountains or visiting nearby villages.

The most straightforward way to trek the GR20 is north to south, on the main red/white flashed waymarked trail from Calinzana to Conca, taking about two weeks to cover the distance. Be sure to build in a few spare days in case they are needed.

GR20 nord

It is possible to trek the northern section of the trail from Calinzana to Vizzavona in just over a week, maybe nine or ten days, and experience the route's most rugged highlights. If time is limited, this is worth considering for those who are confident of their abilities.

GR20 sud

Those who are wary of the level of difficulty involved in the higher parts could sample a week on the southern section from Vizzavona to Conca and reserve judgement on the northern section. This stretch also has its tough moments occasionally, so be warned!

South to north

Although most people trek the GR20 from north to south, experiencing the toughest sections first, it is also possible to trek from south to north, gradually building up to the most rugged and spectacular parts of the route. An increasing number of trekkers now cover part of the GR20, or all of it, in this direction.

Alternatives

Note that there are sometimes high- and low-level alternatives along the way. This provides trekkers with a choice of route. Sometimes, the main route is the low-level one, and sometimes, the high-level route can be a bit easier than the low-level route.

When to hike the GR20 Corsica?

Trekking the GR20 Corsica is not recommended until at least the beginning of June. However, some trekkers have been known to start late in May. Last-minute travel arrangements can be made if you hear that the route is clear of snow, but those who plan well in advance are taking a big chance, and deep snow could affect the higher parts of the route. The presence of snow and ice on particular parts of the route require ice axe and crampons to be carried, as well as possessing the skills to use them properly.

In June, the PNRC refuges and private bergeries will all be fully staffed and in full operation. This used to be a quiet time to trek, but in recent years it has become very busy. The refuges will often be fully booked; any hire tents pitched nearby might also be fully booked. Food supplies and cooked meals will be available at almost every overnight stop.

The best time of year to hike the GR20 is probably around July and August, the peak summer months. However, expect large numbers of trekkers and expect the refuges and hire tents to be fully booked. All services are in full swing, and it is easy to obtain food and drink along the way. This is also the hottest time of the year, with an increasing risk of afternoon thunderstorms. There have been devastating forest fires in the past around this time, closing parts of the route to trekkers.

September used to be a quiet time of year, when the numbers of trekkers decreased, but in recent years it has remained quite busy. The refuges will probably be fully booked, as may the hire tents, but as the month progresses it might be possible to stay indoors without an advance booking. Some of the bergeries offering food and drink may close, and some of the bus services to and from the route will be withdrawn. It is usual for the PNRC refuges to remain fully staffed and supplied with food to the end of the month.

In October, the PNRC refuges remain open, but at some point, they will be unstaffed, with no food supplies. While fuel might be available, it is best not to rely on it, and the water supply might be disconnected to avoid frost damage. Private bergeries will be locked and bolted, and any small food stores along the route will probably be closed, so it will be necessary to carry food or leave the route at intervals to obtain supplies. Few bus services will be available.

Where to stay on Corsica?

For trekkers staying strictly on the classic GR20, most services revolve around mountain refuges situated at intervals along the way. These are provided by the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse (PNRC), www.pnr.corsica, and are open throughout the year, but are only staffed by a gardien and stocked with food from June until early October.

Apart from the refuges, there are also privately owned bergeries along the way. These are working summer farms and some of them allow camping alongside, or provide hire tents. They also supply anything from basic food and drink to complete meals to passing trekkers. Some bergeries operate small cafés or bar-restaurants. Camping and eating at these places costs roughly the same as at the refuges.

For those carrying a tent, the best camping on the GR20 Corsica is available near all the refuges and some of the bergeries, gîtes and hotels, but only very rarely in other places. It is generally forbidden to camp wild throughout the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse (PNRC), no matter how tempting a site might look.

There are a few hotels and gîtes d’étape on or near the GR20. Trekkers can indulge themselves at these places, enjoying comfortable rooms and hot showers, and eating in restaurants or dining rooms.

What to pack?

Most trekkers on the GR20 carry far too much equipment. Think very carefully about the gear you plan to carry, and ruthlessly pare it to the bare minimum. The GR20 is a tough, steep and rocky trail that is generally followed in blazing sun, so it is unwise to carry a heavy load, which will sap your energy and slow you down.

Essential gear

Good footwear – either lightweight boots or shoes, for those absolutely confident about wearing them, or heavier boots if you need them.
Sock combination – try something like Bridgedales, with a dedicated Coolmax liner sock.
Clothing combination – polyester or polycotton, which is better than all-cotton for comfort, and dries quickly after washing.
Sun protection – those who burn easily should use light-coloured long-sleeved/legged clothing and a sun hat.
Sunscreen – the sun can be very strong in the mountains and your skin can be burnt quite easily.
Waterproofs – a lightweight jacket is sufficient; trousers aren’t necessary, but carry them if preferred.
Windproofs – a lightweight jacket is useful, but may be classed as optional, and your waterproof might suffice.
Rucksack – should be big enough to carry everything, and no more, and of course it should be comfortable.
Sleeping bag – a lightweight one is sufficient, as it will never get too cold in the summer months, and one is needed even if staying in refuges.
Tent – a lightweight one; it may not be used all the time, and the weather in summer is often good.
Survival bag – just in case it is needed, and maybe for a bit of protection underneath your tent.
Sleeping mat – campsites are usually hard and stony, so use something like a Therm-a-rest mattress.
Water carrier – with a capacity of at least two litres, and preferably with a drinking hose.
Headtorch – there are plenty of tiny, high-power torches to choose from, and take a spare battery.
Wash kit – toothbrush, soap, towel, toilet paper, etc., and maybe a biodegradable travel wash for clothes.
First-aid kit – a compact one for the usual cuts, sprains, blisters, burns, stings, pains, etc.
Money – take enough cash for the duration, as further supplies are only available off-route. Refuges don’t usually accept credit cards.
Maps – IGN maps of a scale and quality to see clearly what is happening along the route and off-route.
Ice axe and crampons – essential items if there is any chance of snow or ice cover early or late in the season.

What maps are needed for the GR20 Corsica?

The route of the GR20 is well-marked throughout. While walking without maps can never be recommended, it is true to say that the waymarking is so good that trekkers might never need to refer to a map for directions. However, this would mean walking in complete isolation from the surroundings, never knowing the names of nearby mountains and valleys, never knowing the shape of the terrain in advance, and never knowing of other route options. To walk without a map is to walk without real knowledge of your surroundings.

The IGN (Institut Géographique National) produces the best route maps at a scale of 1:25,000. A complete list of the GR20 Corsica maps needed can be found in the Cicerone guidebook to the trail which includes a separate booklet showing the entire route on IGN 1:25,000 maps.

Maps for the GR20 Corsica can be ordered from map suppliers such as Stanfords (7 Mercer Walk, Covent Garden, London WC2H 9FA, tel 020 7836 1321, www.stanfords.co.uk), The Map Shop (15 High Street, Upton-upon-Severn WR8 0HJ, tel 01684 593146, www.themapshop.co.uk) or Cordee (tel 1455 611 185, www.cordee.co.uk).