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Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites Volume 1

75 routes - north, central and east ranges

ISBN

9781852848460

Availability

Published

11 Jan 2018

Reprinted

27 Sept 2023

Edition

Third

Pages

320

Size

17.20 x 11.60 x 1.80cm

Weight

360g

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Guidebook to via ferrata routes in the Italian Dolomites covering the northern, central and eastern regions, including Cortina, Fassa, Sesto, Canazei and Corvara, with advice on choosing the best base. Comprehensive route descriptions for 75 graded routes with maps, topos and stunning photography. Part of a 2-volume set.

Seasons

season runs from June until late September, though arguably the best conditions coincide with the lift opening dates - late June to mid September

Centres

Arabba, Auronzo, Badia, Bolzano, Brunico, Canazei, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Corvara, La Villa, Misurina, Moena, Ortisei, Pozza, San Cassiano, Santa Cristina, Selva, Sesto

Difficulty

Via ferrata will appeal to walkers, scramblers and climbers with a good head for heights; routes graded by difficulty and seriousness, with something for every ability; via ferrata kit (helmet, harness and VF lanyard) required for all routes in this guide

Must See

some of the most unique and magnificent mountain scenery on the planet; Corvara, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Selva, Alta Badia, Falzarego, Giau, Sella, Marmolada, Tre Cime (Drei Zinnen), Tofana, Lagazuoi, Val Gardena, Via Ferrata Tridentina, Fanis, Fanes, Passo Fedaia, Lago di Sorapiss, Croda da Lago, Sassolungo, Alpe di Siusi, Val di Fassa, Langkofel, Catinaccio (Rosengarten)

ISBN

9781852848460

Availability

Published

11 Jan 2018

Reprinted

27 Sept 2023

Edition

Third

Pages

320

Size

17.20 x 11.60 x 1.80cm

Weight

360g

Overview

This guidebook presents 75 via ferrata routes in the stunning Italian Dolomites. Part of a 2-volume set, this book covers Val di Fassa/Canazei, Selva, Badia/La Villa, Covara, Arabba, Falzarego, Cortina, Misurina, Sesto and Auronzo in the northern, central and eastern Dolomites.

Routes are graded by technical difficulty and seriousness and there are comprehensive route descriptions accompanied by access notes, maps and topos. A wide range of grades, lengths and styles, from routes for novices to difficult and technical climbs are covered.

Stunning photography completes this inspirational guide to some of the most breathtaking via ferrata routes in the world. The Italian Dolomites boast some of the most magnificent mountain scenery on the planet and some of the most iconic. Soaring rocky spires and jagged ridgelines are interspersed with gentle valleys and idyllic mountain villages. The Dolomites are also home to the world's greatest concentration of via ferratas - mountain routes or climbs that are protected by a series of cables, metal rungs, pegs and ladders.

Table of Contents

CONTENTS

Map key

Route summary table

Foreword

Introduction

What is a via ferrata?

Using this guide

When to go

Getting there

Getting around

Accommodation

Telecommunications

Maps and place names

Weather

Route gradings

Equipment

Cable etiquette

What to wear

Accidents and mountain rescue

A brief history

Geology

Plant life

Wildlife

Val di Fassa/Canazei

Route 1 Sentiero Massimiliano

Route 2 Via Ferrata Laurenzi

Route 3 Via Ferrata Passo Santner

Route 4 Via Ferrata Roda di Vaèl

Route 5 Via Ferrata Masare

Route 6 Via Ferrata Catinaccio d’Antermoia

Route 7 Via Ferrata Franco Gadotti

Route 8 Via Ferrata I Magnifici Quattro

Route 9 Via Ferrata Kaiserjäger

Route 10 Sentiero Attrezzato Bepi Zac

Route 11 Via Ferrata Paolin-Piccolin

Route 12 Via Ferrata dei Finanzieri

Route 13 Via Ferrata Hans Seyffert

Route 14 Via Ferrata Eterna Brigata Cadore

Selva

Route 15 Via Ferrata Sass Rigais Est/Sud

Route 16 Sentiero Attrezzato Piz Duledes

Route 17 Via Ferrata Sandro Pertini (closed and wire removed)

Route 18 Via Ferrata Oskar Schuster

Route 19 Via Ferrata Col Rodella

Route 20 Via Ferrata Mesules (Pössnecker)

Badia/La Villa

Route 21 Sentiero Attrezzato Günther Messner

Route 22 Sentiero Attrezzato Sass de Putia

Route 23 Via Ferrata Sasso Santa Croce

Route 24 Sentiero Attrezzato Piz de les Conturines

Route 25 Via Ferrata Furcia Rossa

Corvara

Route 26 Via Ferrata Piz da Cir V

Route 27 Sentiero Attrezzato Gran Cir

Route 28 Via Ferrata Brigata Tridentina

Route 29 Via Ferrata Vallon

Route 30 Via Ferrata Piz da Lech

Route 31 Sentiero Attrezzato Sassongher

Arabba

Route 32 Via Ferrata Cesare Piazzetta

Route 33 Via Ferrata delle Trincee

Route 34 Via Ferrata Sass de Rocia

Route 35 Sentiero Attrezzato Col di Lana

Falzarego

Route 36 Sentiero Attrezzato Sass de Stria

Route 37 Via Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli

Route 38 Sentiero dei Kaiserjäger

Route 39 Sentiero Attrezzato Galleria del Lagazuoi

Route 40 Via Ferrata degli Alpini al Col dei Bos

Route 41 Via Ferrata Averau

Route 42 Via Ferrata Ra Gusela

Cortina

Route 43 Via Ferrata Scala del Menighel

Route 44 Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella

Route 45 Sentiero Attrezzato Grotta di Tofana

Route 46 Sentiero Astaldi

Route 47 Via Ferrata Punta Anna and Gianni Aglio

Route 48 Via Ferrata Lamon and Formenton

Route 49 Sentiero Giuseppe Olivieri

Route 50 Via Ferrata Maria e Andrea Ferrari

Route 51 Sentiero Attrezzato Giovanni Barbara/Lucio Dalaiti/Cengia de Mattia

Route 52 Via Ferrata Ettore Bovero

Route 53 Via Ferrata Michielli Strobel

Route 54 Sentiero Attrezzato Terza Cengia del Pomagagnon

Route 55 Sentiero Attrezzato Renè de Pol

Route 56 Via Ferrata Ivano Dibona

Route 57 Via Ferrata Marino Bianchi

Route 58 Via Ferrata Sci Club 18

Route 59 Via Ferrata Giro del Sorapiss

Misurina

Route 60 Sentiero Attrezzato Capitano Bilgeri/Monte Piana/Monte Piano

Route 61 Via Ferrata Merlone

Route 62 Sentiero Attrezzato Alberto Bonacossa

Route 63 Sentiero delle Forcelle

Route 64 Via Ferrata De Luca/Innerkofler

Route 65 Via Ferrata delle Scalette/Curato Militare Hosp

Sesto

Route 66 Via Ferrata Strada degli Alpini

Route 67 Via Ferrata Nord

Route 68 Via Ferrata Mario Zandonella

Route 69 Via Ferrata Aldo Roghel/Cengia Gabriella

Route 70 Via Ferrata Mazzetta

Auronzo

Route 71 Sentiero Cengia del Doge

Route 72 Sentiero degli Alpini

Route 73 Sentiero Attrezzato Amalio da Pra

Route 74 Via Ferrata Sartor

Route 75 Via Ferrata Via di Guerra/CAI Portogruaro

Appendix A Useful contacts

Appendix B Glossary of mountain terms

Appendix C Further reading

Updates

October 2024

Route 20 VF Mesules - bus

There is a regular bus service (471) running between June and the end of Sept. You can therefore leave your car at Pian Schiaveneis and take the bus (very cheap!) to the top of Sella Pass and there is now no need for a car shuffle. There is also a bus stop halfway up the pass near the alpine bend no5, where the path 656 meets the road.

Thank you to Trevor Clarke for this information

August 2024

Route 28 – Via Ferrata Brigata Tridentina

There is currently ongoing work to stabilise the carpark following a significant landslide in summer 2023 – the authorities hope to have it opened again soon.

June 2024

Route 47 corrections

See attached topo corrections for page 206 – there are two corrections.

From Rifugio Pomedes, follow a steep path which switchbacks up behind the chairlift, signed for Via Ferrata Punta Anna. The start of the cable protection is reached in around 15min. Follow the wire up and left to reach an airy traverse; this leads into a steep ridge and gives an immediate feeling of exposure. An hour of excellent, technical and sustained climbing leads to the indistinct rocky plateau of Punta Anna (2731m) which makes for a logical rest point.

Continue to follow a narrow path with intermittent protection along the crest of the ridge to a notch (be sure to follow the waymarks as false tracks appear to lead down ledges and the route may be less obvious in poor weather). In around 20min come to a painted sign marked ‘Cima’; at this point there is also a way- marked escape route to Rifugio Giussani down to the left.

To continue the ferrata, keep right to reach a sloping ledge. Follow this right to join another exposed rightward ledge and continue to reach another junction. Here ‘Cima’ is indicated up diagonally to the left, while paint on a separate rock on the other side of the track indicates ‘Pomedes’ and ‘Sent. Olivieri’ straight ahead to the north-east (another possible escape route; see Route 49). Follow the arrow for ‘Cima’, following sporadic waymarks leading up a series of scree slopes. Reach the next ridge and follow intermittent cable to reach a ladder, overcoming a short and steep rock wall.

Follow the ridge before descending a sloping ledge on the west side to a notch. Cross this on dirty rock and loose earth…

Page 206 (373.525 KB)

June 2024

Route 40 corrections

See attached map corrections for page 182 – there are four corrections.

Start/Finish Bar Magistrato alla Acque

Parking Bar Magistrato alla Acque parking: 46.51980, 12.02805

Driving approach

Bar Magistrato alla Acque is located 2km to the east of the Passo Falzarego (the Cortina side), accessed via the SR48 from Cortina or Livinallongo or the SP24 via the Passo Valparola from Val Badia. From the top of the Passo Falzarego descend SR48 east for 2km, passing Bar Strobel (a popular alternative start point) to reach the ruined red remains of Bar Magistrato alla Acque on the left side of the road. There is ample parking adjacent to the building.

Take the path leading off from behind the bar, signed towards Torri del Falzarego and Col dei Bos. Ascend through vegetation to reach the old military road in around 15min and turn left onto this, continuing for another 10mins to reach the…

Route 40 P182 Map Corrections (933.091 KB)

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James Rushforth Cicerone author RUSHFORTH

By James Rushforth

James’ interest in mountaineering began at a young age, spending family holidays in the Lake District and North Wales, yet it wasn’t long before his passion for rock took him further afield to explore the mountains of northern Europe. He moved to the Italian Dolomites where he began notching up a series of ascents and began his writing career by penning a number of articles about his climbs for the noted website UK Climbing. This in turn led to his first publication, Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata - The Dolomites, published by Rockfax and nominated for the Banff Film Festival Book Award. Very much an all-round mountaineer, James is also a keen ski tourer and ice climber and has spent many cold winter months exploring the couloirs and ice falls that adorn the rocky peaks of the Dolomites. Another passion which developed alongside his love for mountains and writing is photography, with his landscape and sports photography work gaining international acclaim.

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